Late Spring 1998
Surface Traction
Many of the skaters at the X-games spend a considerable amount of time
testing wheels and then selecting the ones which give them the best
combination of high traction and low rolling resistance. Also, I
understand that many skaters probably use a new (or almost new) set for
each run down the course. Even a slightly worn set of wheels does not
(usually) have the same level of "grip" a new set does. According to
Todd Gormick of Hyper Wheels, most skaters prefer to use a new wheel
which has been skated on just enough to remove the "mohawk" (the thin
raised strip of urethane which runs along the middle of a new wheel).
"Trueness"
At high speeds, even very slight misalignments in the shape of the wheel
and/or hub become magnified. This is largely responsible for the much
dreaded "speed wobble" which many skaters encounter when approaching 40,
or even 30 mph. A slightly bent frame would also cause equally
devastating problems. Depending on the severity of the misalignment,
either of these two sources could cause one or more wheels to have poor
surface contact with the pavement. This would seriously compromise the
stability of the skater. Wheel manufacturers do use some form of
quality control to ensure the trueness (and safety) of their wheels, but
the threshold for this testing is likely well below X-Games speed.
Therefore, the wheels that wind up on store shelves have probably not
been tested for the required trueness of high speeds.
Aerodynamics
In motorsports, the concept of "downforce" is a critical issue in
determining the traction of the tires on the road. For an object (or
person) traveling in a horizontal fashion, downforce refers to a
component of air flow which directs pressure (force) downward towards
the ground. In Formula-1 racing, the rear wing is adjusted to vary the
level of downforce on the car and tires. Because downforce is largely
related to the velocity of travel, the level of downforce on a skater is
admittedly not equal to that of a speeding car. However, the issue is
probably important enough to consider.
The magnitude of the downforce is primarily dictated by the shape of the
moving object. In the case of the skater, this refers to body
position. Assuming a deeply crouched position with the head and
shoulders slightly lower than the hind end would serve to increase the
downforce on the skater/wheels. In theory, the greater the difference
in height between the shoulders and hips, the greater the downforce.
Failure to assume this aerodynamic downforce position may result in the
opposite (and undesirable) effect. Exposing a large portion of the
trunk/chest to air with an open body position (shoulders higher than
hips) would serve to reduce downforce and increase the resistance to
forward velocity. Try to avoid this "parachute" position and stay low
and compact, keeping the head and shoulders as low as possible.
"Over the past few weeks, I have noticed a significant drop in my
performance. Every time I skate my muscles feel tired and my leg speed
has dropped. Any idea what could be causing this?"
There are several things that could be going on, either alone or in
combination:
Our bodies are machines that require the right mixture of protein,
carbohydrates, essential fats, vitamins and minerals. Athletes often
need to fine-tune normal nutritional guidelines in order to ensure that
they are getting enough of the nutrients they need most (carbos - fuel,
and protein - muscle repair/maintenance). Feeling tired, weak, or
sluggish can be caused by inadequate caloric intake (not enough carbos)
or a variety of other nutritional deficiencies. For more detailed
information on nutritional issues for athletes, I recommend Nancy
Clark's "Sports Nutrition Guidebook". Check your local book store or
call Human Kinetics (800) 747-4457.
Believe it or not, sometimes we are ill but don't know it. A "silent"
illness, such as a systemic infection or blood disorder (low
hematocrit/red blood cell count), may manifest itself without any
obvious symptoms. Visit your doctor and get your body (and blood)
checked.
Training too much, too often, too intensely, or a combination of these
can lead to a condition referred to as over-reaching. A mild state of
over-training, over-reaching can actually be a desirable outcome of
training because the body grows stronger once it has had sufficient time
to recover. However, if the early signs of over-reaching (high resting
heart rate, muscle fatigue, disruption of sleep, slower than normal
recovery) are not detected and adequate rest is not taken, the athlete
then enters into the chronic state of over-training. Once over-trained,
an athlete must give the body a considerable amount of time (2-10 days)
to recover fully. If this rest is not taken, the problem only worsens,
necessitating even longer recovery. Be wary of the warning signs, and be
sure to always take sufficient rest between intense workouts. If you
suspect over-training, take 3-5 full days rest and see how you feel
afterward. Research seems to indicate that no significant de-training
occurs for about 5 days so don't feel guilty about the time off. Rest
does the body good.
"I am looking to replace my indoor bearings. Many guys on my speed team
use Boss Swiss. There is also the Ninja ABEC-7, but they cost more.
Any insight would be most appreciated."
I can't tell you which bearing is better, but I can tell you to be wary
of claims that higher ABEC ratings equal more speed or greater
efficiency. Once a bearing gets on the ABEC scale, the discriminating
factor is its tolerance (how tightly the balls fit inside the
raceway). In theory, the tighter the better because there would be less
wasted energy. However, because inline skating places angular loads on
a bearing, and because skate bearings get quite dirty, there is some
debate over whether or not a tightly packed bearing is actually
beneficial. Certainly the ABEC-7 bearing you speak of may be better.
But be careful of how you interpret claims such as "lower coefficient of
friction". This data may come from tests which don't accurately reflect
the way a dirty bearing is stressed during actual skating.
"I'm in a 5 wheel skate but it has the bulkier ski-type boot. I feel I
have out-grown this skate and am wondering what would be a good skate to
go into. What skate could you recommend that would be appropriate for
my level?"
A lot of people making the transition from a molded boot to a true
speed boot feel overwhelmed by the growing number of choices. Keep in
mind that no matter what you hear from other skaters, store clerks,
etc., the most important things to consider are price point,
functionality and fit.
Functionality
Quite simply, this means finding a boot that suits your needs (and to
some extent, ability). Is all your skating outdoors? Will you be doing
any indoor (inline) or ice skating on the boot? If not right now, is it
possible you may want to do so in the future? These are all things you
have to consider now to avoid buying a boot that does not meet your
current and future needs.
If you are going to skate indoors (ice or inline) you will want to find
a boot which comes up high enough to fully enclose the ankle bone.
Although this restricts the ankle joint somewhat, it will give you the
support you need for making tight turns. Most speed boots are designed
this way, so this gives you access to all the major brands...Miller,
Bont, Harper, Simmons, Verducci.
If you are skating outdoors, I strongly advocate a boot with a lower
ankle height (one that comes up just below the ankle, or close to the
top of the ankle . This is where your ability (and past experience)
will come into play somewhat. The less support you have, the more you
have to be technically proficient, especially when tired such as the end
of a race. In my opinion, this is actually desirable because it is good
to get into the habit of maintaining efficient form during times of
fatigue. High boots permit sloppiness while lower boots require a little
more technical prowess. You have to be able to judge yourself in this
regard and try and decide which is right for you. A growing number of
manufacturers now offer boots which are slightly lower in height (Miller
Criterium model, Rollerblade Equipe, Simmons).
Fit
Ultimately you have to pick a boot which fits your foot properly. Don't
get persuaded to buy anything other than the boot which feels the best
on your foot (keep your eyes shut while trying them on). Happy skaters
are usually adamant in their opinion of which boot is the best. Sure,
follow their advice if you like, but you will pay the price later if you
buy a boot that is not right for your foot. It's best to find a shop
that carries several models. But, if there's nothing near where you
live, call each manufacturer to find out how their boot is made (e.g.
wide, narrow, square vs. tapered toe area, flat arch, etc.). (Use the
Advertisers Index in FaSST as a guide). These are all important
considerations, so take the time to analyze your feet and shop around.
Don't be one of the many who go through 2-3 pairs of boots the first
year because they bought the "in" boot. This is an expensive mistake.
There's no cut and dried recommendation I can give you. Do some
research, talk to knowledgeable skaters (but follow their "advice"
sparingly), speak to the boot makers, know your feet, then buy the best
fitting boot which suits your budget. Your feet will thank you.
"Can you tell me the best way to position a speed frame on a boot"
In regard to frame positioning. I have attached a segment from the
upcoming FaSST buyers guide. I hope it helps:
Mounting a Speed Frame
Five-wheel frames attach to a speed boot in one of two ways. The first
and most common method of attachment is to insert a bolt through the a
slot in the frame, and thread it tightly into the aluminum heel blocks
embedded into the front and back of the boot. Therefore, there is one
bolt for the front, and one for the heel. Most boots have two or three
mounting holes in the front and two in the back. Which one you use will
depend on how you want your frames positioned laterally.
Front to Back Frame Positioning
Most speed frames have two or three lateral mounting slots which you
can use to attach the frame to the boot. When deciding on which to use,
keep this in mind: the goal is achieve a 50/50 overlap in the front and
back of the boot. That is, when the wheels are on and the skate is
viewed from above, there should be a similar amount of wheel showing in
front compared to the back.
Lateral Frame Position
There is no single answer how to set the lateral adjustment of a
frame. Anatomy, skating technique, and personal preference all play an
important role in finding the right positioning for you. What follows
are general guidelines.
When viewed from above, align the center of the front wheel in a
position between the big toe and second toe. Then look at the boot from
behind and align the center of the rear wheel just inside of the middle
of the boot. Once this is done, place you hands flat along the sides of
the boot and hold the skate directly out in front of you (as if you were
above the boot). Your hands will be parallel and completely vertical.
Using them as a gauge, what you should observe is that the skate frame
has a slight inwards angle. That is, the toe of the frame should be
positioned slightly more inside than the heel.
Test Your Mounting
The final step is to put the skates on and stand on them. Make sure
the skates are about 18' apart, and be sure to have equal weight on both
skates. You should feel like you are positioned directly on top of the
highest point of the wheels, or you should feel a slight inclination to
roll each skate to the outside. If this is not the case (i.e. your
ankles want to collapse inwards), move the frame slightly inwards. Make
small adjustments until you feel right, and then try skating.
Whether you position the frame differently between indoor and outdor
depends primarily on how you set it for outdoor. If you have the frame
relatively center set with little or no inward angle, you probably won't
need to change it for indoor. However, if you have the frame on the
extreme inside of the boot and/or a large inward angle, you will most
certainly need to change it. Not only will the boot hit when the frame
is far inward, but the turned-in angle of the frame will actually work
against you in the turn (i.e., it will make the left skate track away
from the center of the turn when what you want is to have the frame
either straight or turned inwards towards the turn center). Frame
positioning is so individually specific that its difficult to ascribe
guidelines. Sometimes, you just have to experiment to see what feels
right. Keep your eye on future issues of FaSST. So many people ask
this question that I think it deserves more attention.
© 1998, Fedel Performance,
Inc. All rights reserved.
"How do skaters handle speeds in excess of 40 mph, such as the
X-games? Every time I go down a large hill, once I hit about 40 mph my
skates start to feel light as if my legs are not putting as much
downward force on the ground. How do the X-games skaters maintain
control when they exceed these speeds?"
ANSWER
As soon as we start talking about doing downhill at very high speeds
(e.g. 40 mph), there are a few things that have to be considered:
QUESTION
ANSWER
To avoid serious over-reaching or over-training, follow these
guidelines:
QUESTION
ANSWER
QUESTION
ANSWER
For expert advice on boot fit for Bont boots, check out
Bont FitQUESTION
ANSWER
Late Update
Received Friday, June 5, 1998 - via 
From: BRobexxxxx@aol.com
(xxxxx substituted for actual name to preserve privacy)
I read the article on positioning of the frame on the boot. But, my question
is do you position the frame differently for indoor speed skating vs outdoor
speed skating? If so, what is the correct positioning for indoor skating?
ANSWER
Good luck
- Barry
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