When skating, after only a mile the muscles surrounding my shins become extremely tired, so much so that after another mile I couldn't even stand up strait, and my skates would flop left to right. I felt dangerous, out of control, and worse of all, I physically could not continue skating!

 

What you are experiencing is quite common, and can usually be rectified by a change in frame position (see the FaSST Buyer's Guide details on how to set up your frame). Positioning the frame so that the imaginary line between the front and back wheel lies too far inside the foot's balance point can put undue stress on the muscles at the front and side of the shin. Since these muscles control ankle movement (and therefore affect it's stability), even small adjustments in lateral frame position can have a dramatic effect. Most often, shin pain/discomfort can be alleviated by moving the frame slightly to the outside (of the foot) in a more "center-set" position. Move both the front and back about one millimeter at a time until you feel only a slight tendency to roll the ankle to the outside. Try skating, and make further adjustments as warranted.

 

"Whenever I train or race I always get a very painful stitch. Could you please tell me how to get over it, or what I'm doing wrong".

 

Sport scientists are still somewhat mystified when it comes to explaining the "side stitch". What makes it difficult is that there is so much variation. Most researchers who have studied this type of cramping believe that the pain emanates from a muscle or set of muscles in the abdomen. Many such scientists believe the cause to be a spasm in the diaphragm - a somewhat small muscle separating the chest and abdominal cavities, and one that is critical for assisting respiration (breathing). Some researchers believe that a side stitch on the right side of the body is the result of such a diaphragm spasm, while a stitch located centrally or to the left is believed to have a different cause. There is also some evidence that side cramps can be brought on by dehydration, nutritional deficiencies, or prolonged exposure to extreme heat. In any case, however, side stitches seem most clearly related to the breathing process.

Researchers in sports medicine have focused on two primary methods to quickly get rid of the right-sided type of side stitch: (1) Breathing Technique, and (2) Posture.

 

If the side stitch is caused by a muscle problem related to rapid breathing, then changes in breathing methods can often help get rid of the side ache. Some researchers have found that shallow breathers have more problems with side pain than deep breathers. The next time you get a side stitch, try slowing down and taking in some really deep breaths. This technique alone will often bring some relief. As you pick up the pace again, add a very deep breath every so often. Experiment, and try several different "rhythms" of breathing. Watch for any method that, after a while, seems to relieve the pain.

 

There is a mistaken belief that the side stitch is a malady exclusive to running. In truth, any sport which causes you to breathe hard can stimulate the onset of such pain. In the case of inline skating, posture may play a pivotal role in both the occurrence and treatment of the side stitch. It is likely that the prolonged "hunched-over" position of the speedskater interferes with the muscle mechanics of breathing. Try changing your upper body posture every so often, perhaps even standing up every few minutes. Since posture changes may be most beneficial in the treatment of side stitches when combined with adjustments in breathing techniques, the best solution is to experiment. This is one area where what works for one person may not work for another, so take the time to find the solution that is right for you. Remember the following guidelines:

 

What is the best way to rotate wheels on a 5-wheel frame and how often should I do this?

 

If you rotate your wheels often enough (i.e. every 1-2 weeks) you can just do it randomly. This is preferable because you will rotate the wheels before you have had sufficient time to excessively wear one wheel. If you skate a longer period of time before rotating, you are almost sure to have worn one wheel (usually the toe) much more than the others. The idea is to place the most worn wheel where the least worn is, the least worn where the most worn is, etc. and rotate each whel 180 degrees. The secret to wheel rotation is to spend some time looking at your individual wear patterns. Once you know how your wheels wear, it's relatively easy to know how to swap them around

What is the difference between a "low profile" frame and a "high profile" frame?

 

It is difficult to precisely quantify the difference between high and low profile frames because there is no standard which all manufacturers use. With Mogema, the difference is approximately 5 mm. What this means is that the low profile frame brings the boot lower to the ground. Advocates of low-profile frames point to the lower center of gravity and increased stability these frames offer. As a result, these are most often chosen by distance skaters and/or those with low-cut boots (such as a Viking). For what they give up in stability, high profile frames offer the benefit of increased pushing leverage and increased boot clearance on corners. Although we're only talking about a few millimeters here, the perceptual and practical difference between these two frame types is quite remarkable.

 

What are 4-wheel racing frames?

 

These frames are based on a simple concept: Removing one wheel while maintaining the same wheelbase as a 5-wheel skate should be superior. In addition, removal of the middle wheel makes it possible to lower the frame/boot even closer to the ground. This is certainly a logical theory, and 4-wheel frames (primarily Darkstars, made by Built for Speed in upstate NY) were sporadically seen on the feet of elite racers on the early 90's. However, this "fad frame" did not survive long as skaters seemed to prefer the added traction and security of 5-wheels versus the lighter 4. In spite of this, some long distance skaters - who may benefit more from weight savings than increased traction - still prefer such 4-wheel frames. It should be noted that several recently-produced "klap inline" frames (e.g. Raps) are also 4-wheel. The reason for this is not necessarily for weight savings, but because the klap mechanism is quite bulky and takes up the space needed for the middle wheel.

 

I am a 4-wheel skater and have been thinking of buying a pair of 5 wheels racing skates. Is it much more difficult to skate 5 wheelers?

 

Skating on a 5-wheel skate is no more difficult than skating on a 4-wheel skate. In fact the increased wheelbase of a racing skate increases overall stability, facilitates proper mechanics, and increases the economy of motion available to the skater. Because of the longer wheelbase (13" versus about 9"), there will be considerable perceptual differences when first moving to a 5-wheel skate. These are quite easily overcome with practice and experience.